I had lunch in Paris last week – at least it felt like Paris. Actually, I was dining al fresco, or manger à l’extérieur, to be precise, at the new Café Bicyclette in Edmonton’s La Cité Francophone. Surrounded by French conversation and the heady aroma of fresh-baked croissants, I felt I had been transported to a sidewalk cafe in the City of Light. If you need to know one French word, let it be “oui” – you’ll want to say yes to everything there.
Previously home to Bistro La Persaud, the space has undergone a freshening up. A pleasing mix of white paint, brick walls, ladderback chairs with woven rush seats, striped fabric on banquettes and items one might find at the marché aux puces at St-Ouen de Clignancourt give way to a very charming interior. Chalkboard menus feature the daily specials, and patio seating is available while the warm weather lasts.
Someone’s in the kitchen named Bradley – as in Brad Lazarenko, the man behind Culina Muttart and Culina MillCreek. La Cité hired Brad as a consultant to develop the neighbourhood café concept, train the staff, and create the French fare. When it’s time, Chef Eric Amyotte will be saucier-ing and flambé-ing allowing Brad to tend to his other businesses.
My first lunch at Café Bicyclette was good enough to bring me back for a second visit within days. I have yet to find time for a supper meal, but with items like moules-frites (mussels with fries) steak frites, salmon with hollandaise, mushroom and asparagus tarte, and desserts like lemon crème pudding, and pot au choclat on the supper menu, I’ll return, tout de suite.
Coq au vin
The café serves up baked goods by Amy Nachtigall of Sugared and Spiced. Some of you may have tasted Amy’s goods at the Highlands Farmers Market. Amy’s sweet treats were noticed by Brad’s sister, Cindy Lazarenko, who recommended to Brad that he get Amy on board. Now, Amy is whipping up tasty pastries like brioche and tartes and buns and scones that will make you croon like Edith Piaf.
Caramel scone
The breakfast and lunch menu offers lighter meals like croque-monsieur, soup du jour, croissants, salads, sandwiches, and a poutine loaded with cheese curds and succulent gravy. The restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday, brunch on weekends (starting at 10 a.m.), and dinner Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Poutine
Croque-monsieur
Pork, bean and corn soup with arugula, egg and lardon salad
Need more convincing? Listen to my review on CBC Edmonton AM with Mark Connolly.