Fans of Japanese food in Edmonton have a new place to get their sushi on at Japonais Bistro, located at 11806 Jasper Avenue. The bistro opened in the space vacated by the short-lived One One Eight, previously home to Suede Lounge.
At first glance, one might be confused at the name of the restaurant which suggests a French influence on the foods offered. Japonais after all is the French spelling of Japanese, and bistro by definition is a small Parisienne restaurant. Their signage states “modern Japanese cuisine & sake bar”, so confusion aside, we entered hoping the food would give us a clearer understanding of the establishment.
What we found were typical Japanese offerings such as sushi, tempura, tataki, and sashimi with unique and curious creations in these categories like garlic ebi shooter, tuna nachos and spicy tuna pizza. The menu also features an enticing array of Makimono (rolls), but as far as the French influence went, I still wasn’t getting it.
From the 18 types of Makimono – ranging from an affordable $8.95 to a way-out-there $21.95 – we chose three: the Cherry Blossom, the Godzilla and the Golden Crunch. While the Godzilla was the most visually impressive, the Cherry Blossom won top spot for flavour.
Godzilla $17.95
Tempura shrimp, soft shell crab, scallops, mayo, avocado, radish sprouts, sesame seeds & tobiko
Cherry Blossom $17.95
Chopped scallops, tobiko & mayo topped with red tuna and salmon
The variety of sushi is respectable with a few items not usually available in many Japanese restaurants in Edmonton. The night we visited, Japonais was featuring the firm-fleshed Amberjack, the velvety Hawaiian red tuna and gonads of the sea urchin, otherwise known as uni.
Assorted Sushi
L to R: Red Tuna, Red Snapper, Uni, Chop Chop
Individual sushi ranges from $1.95 to $3.45. The pieces are smaller than what is served elsewhere, but price reflects that. Fish is fresh (that should go without saying) and nicely presented although the chop chop, a combination of chopped raw scallops, mayonnaise and tobiko, was disappointing with its slightly sour flavour and non-existent roe.
For those who prefer their food cooked, Japonais offers grilled Miso cod, grilled collars of salmon, yellowtail or amberjack, whole grilled squid, as well as two teriyaki dishes made with chicken or beef.
Grilled Whole Squid $11.95
The grilled squid was charmingly arranged on the plate, the flavour tender with just enough char to add a delicate smokiness.
It wasn’t until the end of the meal that I finally made the French connection, scant as it was, in the desserts: matcha creme brûlée and chocolate mousse. Is that enough to warrant calling this restaurant Japonais Bistro? The bistro’s website states “We focus on modern Japanese menu with a touch of North American influence.” French. Japanese. North American. Despite a bit of an identity crisis, this restaurant is good – in fact, very good – with marks lost only on the chop chop and some over-priced rolls. They should feel confident about the type of food they are serving, and that is, simply, Japanese.
For more details on Japonais Bistro, listen to my CBC radio review with Rick Harp here.