Five days in Portland gave us only a taste of wonderful things this city has to offer. PDX, as it is sometimes called, is high on the global radar list as a must-stop food destination and its not hard to understand why when you consider the talent of the chefs in the area and the availability of incredible fresh food products at their disposal. And then there’s the wine, beer, cocktails and coffee culture. Portland is a veritable Food Garden of Eden.

Our first stop (and entirely by accident) was Pok Pok, a divey little hideaway on SE Division Street known for its Southeast Asian streetfood. We were actually after ramen at Wafu across the way, but were there two hours before they opened. Pok Pok it was — and that was just fine because this is a restaurant I have read much about.  Being a Vietnamese and Thai food fan from way back, I was thrilled to find myself on its doorstep.

Here’s what Fearless Critic has to say about Pok Pok:
 “If you haven’t spent serious time in Thailand (and outside touristy areas), forget everything you think you know, and experience what Thai food really is (and then wonder why on earth no one else is doing this): lime, chili, fish sauce, fermented shrimp paste.”


Forget everything you know…


What Andy Ricker serves at Pok Pok is cuisine from northeast and northern Thailand (with an influence or two from surrounding countries). He has traveled there, spent numerous months there and has eaten, breathed and lived street food until it was coming out of his ears. He returns yearly to learn and taste more. I like that in a chef. 


We, like thousands before us, went crazy over Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings. We ordered both flavours (in spicy and regular). Sweet mother of God; eating these was almost a religious experience. 

I can’t remember what the name of this soup was or what the ingredients were, but I do believe a dose of angel tears was amongst them. And liquid sunshine. And definitely coconut. Come on Ricker, you’re killing me here. Give me a snorkel next time so I can submerse myself and linger in the moment.

The menu at Pok Pok changes seasonally. Why? Because that’s what good restaurants do.

Below is the much lauded Kai Yaang – roasted game hen stuffed with garlic, lemongrass, cilantro and magic dust. They call this their signature dish. This was a gorgeous bird. Don’t be afraid to order the full size instead of the half…you’ll want to eat as much as you can. SUCC-u-LENT.

But here’s the pièce de résistance: Papaya Pok Pok, or what I like to call “Hellfire-Crack and Damnation”. 

The server warmed me that it was spicy. I said, “I like spice.” In fact, I was so sure of myself, I ordered it with the optional salted black crab Isaan style (fermented fish sauce called plaa raak, and dry chilies).  The server advised that maybe, considering it was my first time, that I go easy and order it regular. But I was committed. I like spice. Bring it.


Forget everything you know…

Eating this salad is like sticking your tongue on a mosquito zapper. You should stop, but you can’t. Even after the pain hits, you want more. And yet the flavours– the lime, the garlic, the papaya, the fish sauce–they all hit your tongue like raindrops. Like pelting, acid raindrops. So why, you may ask, would anyone want to eat this? Because one week later, I am craving it, that’s why. The heat, the sweet, the tang, the crunch…all those things together make this dish the culinary crack of Pok Pok.

If this was our first Portland food experience, I couldn’t wait for what the next day would bring.

Pok Pok, by the way, is named after the sound that is made when pestle and mortar meet.

And something else you should know: the food, simply said, is some of the best stuff you’ll ever put in your mouth. Oh, and also: Andy Ricker, the man behind it all, was awarded the 2011 James Beard Foundation Best Chef Northwest award. ‘Nuff said.

For a list of accolades, articles and awards, visit Pok Pok’s website.