Before we left for Arviat, Nunavut, I took stock of the inventory in our freezer: umingmak (musk ox), tuktu (caribou), muktaq (whale blubber): three kinds – beluga, narwhal and bowhead; (We had deep-fried beluga blubber in Toronto and it was amazing!) and then there was sea urchin, turbot and tunnuq (caribou fat)–all product we will use for the upcoming Northern Food Night on April 16th at Bistro La Persaud.
We managed to wrestle a container of iksuq (soft, smearable whale fat) from a friend who didn’t really want to give it up but his wife made him. So, thank you Lillian for making Sheldon relinquish his precious iksuq! Apparently Sheldon likes to put it on crackers or toast (?) using the iksuq as very fragrant oleo.
The char came in a couple of days ago along with the turbot from Pangnirtung. The shrimp, also from Pang, are on their way, and the kelp from Cape Dorset (Kingnait) is waiting to be picked up at the airport.
Our trip to Arviat this past weekend was to listen to the remaining Ahiarmiut (“inland caribou people”, a.ka. “Ihalmiut “) tell their stories of when they were relocated from where they lived inland near Ennadai Lake to the coastal communities of Whale Cove, Rankin Inlet and Arviat where the land, the animals and the lifestyle were foreign to them.
Later that evening, the Ahiarmiut put on a beautiful drum dance and singing performance for us–a real honour.
David Serkoak (pictured above) takes a turn at drum dancing, while some of the Elders sing songs. The songs are full of passion and these women, all in their late 70s, sing with incredible emotion. The songs are passed down from one generation to the next.
Even more of an honour was being asked to participate. I do have a picture of Steve dancing, but some things are best left to the imagination. Remember the movie “White Men Can’t Jump”? Well, I can vouch first-hand that white men (kabloonaq) can’t dance either. To protect his dignity, I will publish a photo of me drum dancing instead. As you can see, I lacked the passion that David Serkoak exhibited, but at least I tried.
On the morning we left, I was taken to the airport by “Arviat Taxi”by David’s nephew, Andy.
David gave us a gift of akpik berries (cloud berries) to use in our upcoming Northern Food Night and the James Beard Dinner in New York in May. If you haven’t purchased your tickets to Northern Food Night, you should do so now by going to the Slow Food Edmonton’s website. As usual, it will be a sell-out event.
And for all you people who wonder about the dogs that pull the sleds in the Arctic, here’s a shot for you:
If you want to travel to the Arctic, come to our Northern Food Night; you could win airfare for two to anywhere Canadian North flies; it’s an incredible prize (valued up to $9,000.00). Traveling to many places in the North is not cheap, but trust me, it is something everyone should put on their list of places to go. You’ll be smitten.
Twyla, you and Steve are true ambassadors of northern food and culture. I have you to thank for bringing Paul Finkelstein and his class (and me!) to Nunavut this past October. As both a food and cultural experience, the north is hard to beat.
Hey Steve,thanks! It was great being with you in Cambridge Bay last fall. I enjoyed our time togeter and especially enjoyed seeing you devour that raw caribou out on the land. I love your adventurous spirit! You are a true “foodie” and Stratford is lucky to have you. 🙂
Oh my, what a beautiful story and write up. As you probably know I am a recent (like, just became a permanent resident a week ago) immigrant to Canada, and your post has just made me realise how little I know about this beautiful country.
My husband has always wanted to go North (he is a Terrace, BC boy), and now I am inspired to head out there too. It looks like a magical place.
Thank you fro sharing.
Michelle, thanks for that. The Arctic is vast,amazing and beautiful. You should come to our Northern Food Night so you can try the foods, hear the stories and see some pictures of our travels over the years. You COULD win an incredible prize – 2 tickets to anywhere Canadian North flies (all throughout the Arctic), it’s a $9K value. Imagine where you could go if you won that!
Twyla, I would have loved to do that, had I found out about it a little earlier 🙁 Unfortunately, I have my in-laws visiting at that time, and we may be heading off to Nakusp straight after, so sadly won’t be able to make it this time round…
Would you host a similar night again? Its something I would love to come to. And will you be there at Eat Alberta? I am really looking forward to meeting up with you all.
Darn, too bad! Our NFN is an annual event so looks like you’ll have to come to the one in 2012. And unfortunately I will be Eating Las Vegas at the end of the month while the Eat Alberta event is on. Bad timing on my part, but Vegas has one or two good restaurants I hear 😉
Twyla, really fascinating stories from the North, a large part of our country that most of us don’t know alot about. The locals must be very hospitable as it seems they whole heartedly welcome you into their community, thanks for sharing with us!
Jay
Jay,
The locals are wonderful. Always kind, always helpful and so full of humour you can’t imagine! They love to laugh. I understand completely how some people get the “Northern Bug” and never leave. There’s something about that incredible light and the stillness in the air that is very calming. You even get used to the drone of the Ski-Doos after a while.
Jay…come to Northern Food Night, you’ll be in for a treat! Good food, good wine and some good stories, I guarantee it!
Well, the good news is that husband has decided we’re going to live in Edmonton forever and ever (unless I win the lottery, then we’re moving to the Seychelles) 🙂 So, yeah, I will definitely be there for NFN 2012. Hopefully will meet up with you before that though!
Enjoy Las Vegas, yeah I heard about those restaurants ;-))
Thank you for the report. I read the book Farley Mowat and wanted to learn more about modern Ihalmiuts.