Although the guests couldn’t know it, this dinner would prove to be the most challenging northern food dinner of all. First off, Chef Charest was busy creating culinary masterpieces for over 200 guests in Ottawa at the Governor General’s Performing Arts Awards the night before the James Beard Dinner in New York. That meant he would finish there, grab a few winks and get up to catch a flight at dawn to New York.
Manhattan culinary students, Sade and Lazarus
Phil – a true forager and (somewhat) mad scientist
The students were amazing. After touring a few New York hot spots, they’d hustle to the kitchen, put the aprons on and work until they could hardly stand. Paul also enlisted the help of three reliable chefs: Beja, Phil and Jared — Fink’s previous students and now chefs in their own right. These three came from various parts of Ontario and Prince Edward Island to be a part of this event. Impressive.
Paul Finkelstein double-checking the menu
Steve and Paul take inventory of the food
Beja arranging the charcuterie plate: Mipkuzola from Hills Foods, Tamworth Sausage from Ontario, smoked musk ox tongue, and caribou salami made by Real Deal Meats of Edmonton.
There is a lovely garden in the back and guests are seated in rooms that once served as bedroom and office-space when James Beard lived there.
Chef Charest gets help preparing the musk ox for the tender cube appetizer
Chef Paul Finkelstein whips up a batch of bannock
James Beard servers start setting up for the dinner
By the time guests started to arrive around 7 pm, the kitchen was humming.
Jared and Becky plate the musk ox tender cubes
Guests enjoy a glass of Ontario sparkling wine while the kitchen staff gets set to bring out the canapes.
Steve and Paul relayed the history about how our northern food dinners came to be and what went into preparing for an event such as this. And then the food came. After the first two courses, I remembered I had a camera with me.
Turbot tempura and pickerel topped with whitefish caviar and Haida Gwaii herring roe on kelp
Korea-style hot pot of fire-roasted quail and charred foie gras with kimchee and noodles
Charcuterie plate – cured and smoked meats with pickled ramps and brioche
While the guests were sighing and moaning and licking their lips, I wandered around the room asking people how they were enjoying the food. One person said out of the two dozen James Beard events he’s attended, this one was, by far, the crown jewel. I sent a text to the kitchen to let them know. I think they were happy to hear how the food was being received. Paul, Louis and the team deserved the praise; they certainly worked hard for it.
Who knows where we’ll end up next. Wherever it is, I know the team will come together again from whatever corner of Canada they’re in at the time. There’s a ton of skill and passion in every one of them and it’s a very wonderful thing being a part of it.
Well done, chefs and students, well done!
My wife and I were one of the incredibly fortunate people to have dined at The Beard House for the Arctic Dinner and if I may say it was so stupendously amazing. We were very lucky to have been able to sample all of the extremely rare foods that were brought to us as a gift. And the food itself tasted and was presented in a 4 star fashion. Each plate was a mini-masterpiece of numerous different bites. It could have easily been presented like a 30 course meal but that would have been a too arrogant approach for these folks. Simply put I was blown away and quite honestly still am. Jock Ellery Grundy with the International Culinary Center/The French Culinary Institute/The Italian Culinary Academy.
Now, that is a comment to cherish, Twyla! What a tribute to you and your team! You know, of course, that I am thrilled to pieces for you and the work you and Steve have done to showcase the food of our North. The notion is that all Canadians have eaten this food by many in the US, but, as we know, it is of the rarest form even here in “Northern” Alberta.Of course, the creative take on it could have only come from the minds and work of those two chefs and yourselves. I am thrilled for all the local people in Edmonton that got to experience it, too – sad that I missed it – you know that, but more than you can imagine. However, it would be my passionate hope that this Northern Foods Night is a yearly event in Edmonton that people will travel for. You have certainly made a very deep and powerful mark in the pages of food happenings everywhere, after this!
Was there a professional photographer there? That is something that must be included in all events as special as this.
Congratulations!!!
Valerie
Jock: thank you SO much… I’m so proud of our team and what they accomplished. It was an honour to present it at the James Beard House and I’m glad that you and your wife enjoyed it as much as we did. Please stay in touch.
Valerie…again, your notes are so nice to receive. Next year we will give you plenty of notice for our annual Northern Food Night! I appreciate what you said about what we have done; that means a lot to me. The dinners are always a ton of work, but we get such pleasure out of doing them.
There was a photographer on hand. I’m just waiting to hear when and where the photos will be available to view. I’ll let you know. 🙂
Twyla & Steve,
Thank you so much for this amazing opportunity. We are so happy that everything went well, and even more excited to have your continued support and faith in us at Real Deal Meats.
Cheers,
Darcy & Alicia